Skylight Shades

Skylight Shades in Fortville

Overhead glass covered before the ladder comes out

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Quick Answer

A short orientation before the detail: this product gets measured in your home, built to those sizes, and installed once it arrives. The answers here cover selection, operation, care and what the warranty does and doesn't include.

  • Service: Skylight Shades for Fortville homeowners
  • Service area: Fortville, IN and surrounding areas
  • Honest structure: the measure happens on a normal appointment, the factory takes two to five weeks to build your order, and then we install. Service work on something already hanging moves much faster because nothing needs fabricating.
  • Insured and bonded
  • Serving Fortville, IN since 2008
Skylight Shades Services

Expert Skylight Shades for Fortville Homes

Overhead glass turns up in two very different parts of Fortville. The older version sits in the 1960s and 1970s stock, where the town counts 196 units from the 1960s and 160 from the 1970s, and a ranch or split level hall with no exterior wall to borrow from was given a single overhead unit instead. The newer version is in the Geist facing plats, where houses reported at an average value of $636,000 put sloped glass over rooms built to look west across the reservoir. A sloped opening takes sun through far more of the day than a wall window does, so the room under it runs hot first and cools last.

An overhead shade is a different product from a wall shade, and it fails differently too. Gravity is working against the fabric rather than for it, so a shade under a slope wants to belly away from the glass and leak light around all four edges. That's why these run in tensioned side channels with load kept on the hembar, and the channels are doing structural work rather than trim work. Power is the other half. You can't reach the shade, and Hunter Douglas states PowerView battery life is about a year, so a battery unit fourteen feet up becomes a ladder trip every single year. At Blossom Trace, where Joyner Homes builds design build, we'd rather get hardwired power pulled while the ceiling is open.

When to Call

Signs You Need Skylight Shades

If you notice any of these in your Fortville home, it is worth booking a measure. None of it is urgent, and none of it fixes itself either.

Reaching the great room glass needs scaffolding

A hard band of light lands on the artwork at noon

A pole is the only way to reach that glass

A new build left every skylight bare

The motor quit and nobody owns a tall enough ladder

Glare lands on a screen you can't move

Dust and insects have collected in the light well

The shade quit halfway down and stayed there

A solar panel on the shade never seems to charge

Standing under that glass feels cold in January

Our Process

How Fortville Window Treatments Handles Skylight Shades

Every job follows the same five-step process. Transparent, thorough, and done right the first time.

1

Reach and access assessed

2

Power method decided

3

Charging plan priced in

4

Travel limits set and re-checked

5

Solar panel exposure checked

Real Project Photos

Skylight Shades in Fortville

Photographs from real skylight shades jobs completed by our crew in Fortville and surrounding areas.

Custom shades measured and installed in FortvillePlantation shutters fitted to a Fortville windowCellular shades in a Fortville living room
Scope of Work

What Skylight Shades Includes

Every Fortville job is documented item by item. Here is what the crew covers.

Every unit measured at the glass frame itself, since the finished shaft below it is usually wider and often flared outward

Slope of the glass recorded, because a shade on a pitched plane has to be held against gravity rather than hung from a rail

Tensioned side channels specified on anything that isn't vertical, so the fabric can't belly away from the glass in the middle

Reach assessed out loud at the measure: what a pole can work, what needs a ladder, what nobody should be climbing to at all

Power method settled before the fabric is chosen, because a dead battery over a stairwell is a different problem than one at eye level

Rechargeable wands, trickle charge points and solar charging panels priced into the job rather than mentioned afterward

Battery interval written next to the height of the opening, since Hunter Douglas puts PowerView life at about one year

Low-voltage locations marked for a licensed electrical contractor wherever a hardwired motor is the sane answer

Fabric picked for what the opening actually does wrong, whether that's July glare on a screen or a bedroom lit at sunrise

Cellular fabric considered where the opening bleeds heat in January, with clearance held off the cold glass above it

Shape templated on site for a trapezoid, a triangle or any angled unit that isn't a plain rectangle

Channel finish and fabric color judged from the floor, since the underside is the only face of this shade you will ever see

Radio path tested from where you'll stand to where the motor will sit, because a deep shaft and foil-faced insulation both cut range

Travel limits set top and bottom, then re-checked on a return visit once the fabric has relaxed

A written plan for how the unit comes down again for service, cleaning or a battery change

Debris sitting in the light well pointed out before install, since a shade hides that and doesn't remove it

Written contract with scope, dates and total price, as IC 24-5-11 requires on residential work over $150

Every unit run full travel from the floor with the remote in your hand before the ladder leaves the room

Pricing

What Skylight Shades Cost in Fortville

Published national ranges put custom-fabricated shades at roughly $250 to $2,600 a window and motorized window coverings at roughly $300 to $1,500 per window installed. Those are national category figures, not a quote for an address in Fortville. Overhead units sit high in both bands and there are honest reasons why. The fabric runs inside tensioned side channels instead of hanging free. The shape is frequently not a rectangle, so somebody builds a template. Almost every unit is motorized, because nobody wants a pole in the family room, and the motor then needs a charging plan that a wall outlet six feet away would have solved. Access is the last multiplier: the install happens off a ladder or a lift. Fortville Window Treatments prices these from the measured frame in Hancock County, with the power method decided before the number is written.

By Product

How Skylight Shades Differ by Product

Every product in this trade behaves differently in a room. Here is what that means for this work.

Tensioned side channel track: Aluminum channels fixed to each side of the frame with the fabric held under tension between them. On sloped or horizontal glass this isn't a light-blocking upgrade, it's the thing that stops the fabric from sagging away from the glass.

Cellular skylight fabric: A honeycomb fabric on an overhead track, which is what people specify when the opening is losing heat in the coldest weeks. DOE and ORNL measured up to 20 percent heating energy savings for cellular shades against a bare window.

Solar screen fabric overhead: An open weave rated by openness factor, sized to cut glare while you can still tell it's daylight up there. It's the right call over a kitchen or a stairwell where the complaint is brightness rather than heat or privacy.

Room darkening skylight fabric: An opaque face inside channels, which is as dark as an overhead opening gets. The channels close the side light, and the honest limit is the head and hem, where a small amount still finds its way around the fabric.

Rechargeable battery wand: A wand of cells that slides out of the headrail for charging. On a reachable unit that's a twenty minute job once a year. On an unreachable one, plan the charging point at the order stage rather than discovering it later.

Solar charging panel: A small panel mounted where it actually sees sky, wired to trickle charge the battery wand. Over glass that gets real sun this is the arrangement that keeps a hard-to-reach unit running without anybody hauling a ladder around.

Hardwired low-voltage motor: Power run to the header by a licensed electrical contractor, with our low-voltage locations marked for them. It costs the most up front and it's the only version that never needs a battery, which on high glass is worth arguing about.

Pole-operated manual unit: A track shade worked with a telescoping pole and a hook. It's inexpensive, it never needs power, and it's only pleasant on an opening you can actually reach from the floor with a pole you don't mind storing.

Templated specialty shape: A trapezoid, a triangle or an angled unit built from a physical template taken at your glass. Nothing about these is stock, and the template is why the finished shade follows the frame instead of leaving a wedge of daylight at one corner.

Remote, repeater and scene control: The control layer that makes an overhead shade usable: a handheld or wall remote, a repeater where the signal has to cross a header, and scenes so a bank of skylights moves together instead of one at a time.

Light Control

See What Each Fabric Does To The Light

Pick a fabric below and the window updates. It's a drawing rather than a photograph, so read it as a rough guide to what each family does in a Fortville room, and to what it doesn't do.

Fabric type

Sheer, 10 percent openness

Ten percent of the weave is open, so you keep the view and most of the daylight. Glare drops a little. After dark, once your lamps are on, someone outside can read shapes through it, which is why this belongs on a view window rather than a bedroom.

Openness factor is printed on the fabric card, so you can compare one line against another before you order anything.

Keeps the viewNot private after dark

Solar, 5 percent openness

The usual pick for a west window or a covered porch. You can still read the yard through it, glare comes down noticeably, and the fabric intercepts a good share of the sun before it reaches you at four in the afternoon.

It also cuts the UV landing on floors and furniture. NFRC puts UV at roughly 40 to 60 percent of fading damage, so this slows fading rather than stopping it.

View and glare controlSlows fading

Solar, 3 percent openness

A tighter weave. The room goes dimmer and the view drops back to an outline. Choose it where the sun is the problem and the view is second, which around here usually means a west wall in July. That's a common call on this side of Indianapolis.

Openness affects how much you see out, not how private you are. A 3 percent fabric still shows silhouettes at night.

View becomes an outlineStrong glare control

Solar, 1 percent openness

Close to a solid fabric with a little view left in it. This is the strongest glare control in the solar family.

The trade is that it darkens the room on a gray January day too. Indianapolis averages a January high near 36F and the light is flat, so think about how the room reads in both seasons before you commit.

Darkest solar optionDim on gray days

Light filtering

No view through it. Daylight comes through the face diffused, so the room stays bright without a hot spot across the television or the kitchen island. This is the default for living spaces.

It isn't private in reverse at night. With the lamps on and the sun down, silhouettes still show.

No view through itBright without the glare

Room darkening

A denser fabric, usually with a liner behind it. Most of the light coming through the face is gone.

Light still arrives around the edges on an inside mount, so a room darkening shade gives you a dim room rather than a dark one. If someone in the house sleeps during the day, say so at the measure and we'll scope it differently.

Dim, not darkEdges stay bright

Blackout

The fabric itself passes essentially no light. What you'll still see is the perimeter. Lutron publishes an inside-mount light gap of about 3/4 inch per side on its Roller 20 and 64 shades, along with a standard factory deduction of 1/16 inch per side, and shades over 120 inches tall or past a 4:1 height-to-width ratio get larger gaps than that.

So if you need a genuinely dark bedroom, that gap has to be dealt with on purpose, either with side channels or by going outside mount. We tell you which one your opening can carry while we're still standing in the room.

Dark facePerimeter needs a plan

Openness factor is a measured fabric spec, so you can compare it line to line. The category names are not measured. One maker's room darkening can behave like another maker's light filtering, which is why the sample books come to the measure and get opened in the room they're going in, at the hour that room has the problem.

Common Questions

Skylight Shades FAQ

Questions we hear most often from Fortville homeowners considering skylight shades.

Because nothing else holds the fabric flat once the opening tilts. On a wall window gravity keeps the shade in plane and the hembar hanging true. Turn that same shade toward horizontal and the fabric sags off the glass, the hem wanders, and daylight comes in around every edge instead of just two. A skylight system runs the fabric between tensioned side channels with a cable or spring keeping constant load on the bottom, which is also the only thing that lets it stop halfway. Without channels an overhead shade is open or lying on the glass, with nothing usable in between, which is why we never quote one for a Geist facing great room without them.
With a motor, in practice. A pole can reach a shade at ten or twelve feet on a vertical wall, but working a pole against a slope over a stair or a great room floor is awkward and it gets skipped, which means you paid for a shade nobody moves. Motorized removes the decision. Group the overhead units into a scene with the west wall glass so one command handles the whole room, and put that scene on an astronomical timer so it tracks sunset by date rather than by clock. National installed pricing for motorized runs $300 to $1,500 a window.
Three, and they get worse in that order. Best is a hardwired feed pulled while a ceiling is open, which ends the battery question permanently. Next is a small charging panel mounted at the head of the opening that keeps the battery topped up from the daylight already coming through the glass, which some systems offer and which works well on a bright slope. Last is a plain battery unit, which is fine if you accept the annual reach. We survey what's above the ceiling before quoting, because a 1970s Fortville split level with a finished lower level and no access above changes the answer completely.
It reduces the load rather than removing it, and the distinction matters. By the time an interior shade sees the sun, the energy is already through the glass and inside the room, so the shade is reflecting some of it back out through the same opening rather than stopping it arriving. A light facing fabric does that better than a dark one. With Indianapolis averaging an 85.2 degree July high, that reduction is real but partial. The winter side is quieter and more useful: a closed cellular overhead shade slows the cold current sliding off the glass in January, when the average low sits at 20.9 degrees.
Closer than most people expect, and not absolute. A room darkening or blackout fabric held in side channels blocks the two edges that leak worst, and a light blocking pocket at the head handles the third. What's left is a thin line where the fabric meets the channel and whatever comes past the head bracket. Looking up at a slope, you see less of that edge than you would standing beside a wall window, so an overhead blackout usually reads darker than the same fabric downstairs. If a bedroom in a 3,062 square foot Mt. Vernon North plan has to be dark, say so at the measure and we'll spec the channels rather than adding them later.
Usually, and it stops being a two dimension order. Angled and tapered overhead openings are built to a template rather than to a width and a height, so we measure the actual corners and confirm the slope angle, because the angle drives the tension the system needs. In the Geist facing plats the houses were individually specified rather than built from a repeated plan, so no two overhead units in the same community need match. Custom shapes cost more and take the full 2 to 5 week fabrication window or a little longer. What we won't do is force a rectangle into a tapered opening.
Four things stack up. The fabric runs in tensioned side channels rather than hanging off a headrail, so there's more hardware in the product. The opening is often a trapezoid or a triangle, which means a template and a one-off build. Almost every unit gets a motor, since a pole is only charming for about a week. Then there's access, because installing above a two story room is ladder work rather than step-stool work. Nationally, custom shades run about $250 to $2,600 and motorization adds roughly $300 to $1,500 per window installed.
Tension. On a vertical window gravity does the work and the hembar hangs straight. Tip that plane over and the same fabric wants to hang away from the glass in the middle, which looks wrong and lets light run around the edges. So an overhead unit rides in aluminum channels down each side, with the fabric held taut between them. Get the channels parallel and the fabric tracks correctly. Get them out of parallel by a sixteenth and the shade fights you at one end, which is why the frame gets measured rather than the finished opening below it.
Somebody gets a ladder, which is exactly why we settle the power method before the fabric. Hunter Douglas states that PowerView battery life is about one year, and that number is the single most under-disclosed cost on a motorized job at any height. Overhead it turns into an access problem as well as a cost. The answers are a rechargeable wand you can reach, a solar panel that trickle charges it, or hardwired power run to the header. We price those honestly at the quote so the yearly reality is in front of you.
Usually yes, and it's the version we push on genuinely unreachable glass. A low-voltage supply comes to the header and the motor never needs a battery again. The electrical work belongs to a licensed electrical contractor, and we mark our low-voltage locations for them so the wire lands where the motor actually is. It costs more at the start and it costs nothing every spring after that. On a shade that needs a lift to service, that math stops being close.
Close, if you buy the right build. An opaque fabric running inside side channels closes off the side light, which on overhead glass is where most of it wants to come in. What we won't tell you is that it will be perfect, because there's still a head and a hem where a thin line can show. Compare that to an ordinary inside mounted shade on a wall window: Lutron publishes 3/4 inch per side of light gap on their Roller 20 and 64 product, and channels are how you close that. Overhead, channels aren't optional anyway.
It helps with the two things you can feel. Overhead glass takes sun for more hours than any wall window in the house, and in a Fortville July, with average highs at 85.2F, a bare skylight is a fixed heat source over a room you can't rearrange. A screen or an opaque fabric cuts the direct beam and takes the glare down. On the heating side, cellular fabric is the one with documented testing behind it, where DOE and ORNL measured up to 20 percent heating energy savings against a bare window. We won't turn any of that into a dollar figure for you.
Worth planning for rather than ignoring. In January, when average lows around Hancock County sit near 20.9F, overhead glass runs cold and the air in the shaft is warmer and wetter than you'd guess. A shade held tight against that glass creates a still pocket where moisture can collect. We keep clearance between the fabric and the glass, we don't seal the shaft, and in a bath or a kitchen with a skylight we talk about running the shade open part of the day through the coldest weeks.
At the glass frame, never at the finished opening you see from the room. Most shafts are wider than the glass and many are flared, so a shade measured at the ceiling line would be badly oversized and would have nowhere to mount. We measure the frame in both directions, record the slope, check the diagonal, and note where every screw can actually land. On an angled unit that measure becomes a template instead of a set of numbers.
Usually, with a template. Fixed angled and triangular units get built to a physical pattern taken at the glass, and they either operate along one axis or stay fixed as a permanent filter, depending on the geometry. A trapezoid with two parallel sides is the friendliest shape and often operates normally. A true triangle frequently ends up as a fixed panel, which is a real answer rather than a failure, and it's better than an oversized rectangle leaving a lit wedge in the corner.
Gently, and less often than you'd think. Vacuum the face on low with a brush head when you can reach it, and leave the channels alone unless something is actually binding in them. The dust and insect debris that collects in a light well is worth clearing before we install, because a shade covers it up rather than dealing with it, and you won't want to revisit that decision later. If the unit is above a stairwell, ask us how it comes down before you need it to.
Yes, on any opening you can reach comfortably with a pole. A pole-operated track shade costs a fraction of a motorized unit, it never needs power, and it works fine in a room with an eight or nine foot ceiling where the pole lives in a closet nearby. Above a two story space it stops being reasonable, because the pole gets long and unwieldy, and most people quit using it by the second season. That's the honest dividing line we use.
We test it at the measure rather than after the install. Radio range gets cut by masonry, by metal in the framing and by foil-faced insulation, and a skylight sits behind more of that than a window does because the signal has to get up through a shaft and past a header. Where it's marginal, a repeater goes in on the same floor and the problem disappears. Where a house has several overhead units, a hub placed for signal rather than for whichever shelf is closest to the router usually settles it.
It ages faster, yes, and it's the same reason you wanted a shade. Overhead glass takes more hours of direct sun than anything else in a Fortville house, so the fabric on that unit is working harder than the one in your living room. Solar screen weaves and vinyl-faced fabrics hold up best. On the room side, NFRC attributes roughly 40 to 60 percent of fading damage to UV, so the shade slows what happens to your floors and furniture below it. It reduces that. It doesn't end it.
Two to five weeks is the normal custom fabrication window, and overhead units sit toward the longer end because the channels, the motor and any templated shape all get built to your specific frame. Nothing there is a delay. It's a factory making a one-off. You get the fabrication window in writing next to the scope, the dates and the total price, which the Indiana Home Improvement Contract Act requires on residential work over $150. If a factory date moves, you hear it from us in the week we hear it.
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Contact Information

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Our team prioritizes scheduled measures and service calls, and books in-home measures during business hours.

Office
1417 Commerce Avenue, Indianapolis, IN 46201
Hours
Mon-Fri 8a-6p
Service Area
Fortville, IN and Surrounding Areas

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